The Olmecs, an ancient people who populated what is now Central America from 1300BC to 300BC, are believed to be the first to have domesticated the Cocoa tree.
By 500 AD, the Mayans were growing Cocoa in dedicated plantations, with beverages made from the fruit of the plant being available only to the elite. Cocoa beans were used as currency, a practice that continued into the 1900’s in parts of the Yucatan.
Cocoa has always held a special attraction particularly when incarnated as chocolate. Often thought to be addictive, cocoa’s mystique continues to evoke potent images. Historically, cocoa was considered to have strong medicinal properties and was used to treat inflammation, anemia, fever, gout, and lung disorders.
Cocoa contains several classes of materials with strong biological activity. Most notably, cocoa is rich in xanthine alkaloids, flavonols, and related oligomers. This cocktail of phytochemicals provides some interesting benefits that can be harnessed by Cosmetic Scientists to solve specific problems. Research shows that Cocoa can reduce platelet aggregation, inhibit lipid peroxidation, inhibit excess Ornithine Decarboxylase activity, and stimulate cutaneous blood flow.
Typically, cocoa is applied to treat conditions like cellulite, focusing on the benefits of the xanthine alkaloids present as well as the ability of flavones to block estrogen receptors. With the enhanced delivery of phytoactives resulting from biofermentation with Lactobacillus, Cocoa Bioferment PF is also ideal for the treatment of under eye circles.
The arachidonic acid cascade mediated inflammation, in many casesthrough the action on leukotrienes. A study was performed to evaluate the ability of cocoa flavanoids to inhibit leukotriene formation. In this study human recombinant 5-lipoxygenase was used to convert arachidonic acid to 5-hydroperoxy-6E,8Z,11Z,14Z-eicosatetraenoic acid (5-HpETE), a precursor to 5,6 leukotriene A4 (LTA4) formation. LTA4 is a critical intermediate to the synthesis of other leukotrienes and as such a suitable marker.
As LTA4 is an unstable epoxide, its presence is measured indirectly by evaluating the concentrations of its hydrolysis products. The antioxidant properties of flavanols are undisputed, however flavanols have an additional mechanism by which they can protect cells.
INCI Nomenclature: Lactobacillus/Theobroma Cacao (Cocoa) Fruit Ferment Filtrate
Suggested Use Levels: 1.0-10.0%
Suggested Applications: Firming, Under Eye, Slimming, After Sun
Appearance: Amber to Brown Liquid
Solubility In Water: Soluble
pH (Direct): 6.0-8.0